Straight to the point
In Sears’ 1937 catalog, a women’s size 14 was meant to fit women with a 32-inch bust. In 1967, that same measurement was a size 8 – and in 2011 it was a size 0.
But why such a big discrepancy over the decades?
The answer is vanity sizing. A sneaky tactic used by clothing manufacturers to make consumers feel better about themselves and, as a result, buy their products.
In this article, we’ll explain what vanity sizing is, why it’s used, why it can be a problem, and how you can handle vanity sizing in your online e-commerce store.
What is vanity sizing?
Imagine a woman shopping for a dress.
At Brand A, she fits perfectly into a size 6, but at Brand B, she needs a size 10 for a similar style. Her body hasn’t changed, but the sizing standards have. Brand A might have intentionally downsized its labels to flatter her into thinking she’s smaller than she is. That feel-good moment can make her more likely to hit “Add to Cart.”
That’s vanity sizing.
It’s when brands label clothes with smaller sizes than what the actual measurements suggest. As with the discrepancy in Sears’ catalogs over the years, it’s not because women’s busts have gotten smaller – brands employ vanity sizing to make shoppers feel better about themselves.
This strategy is especially common in women’s clothing, where size can play a big psychological role in buying decisions.
But examples of vanity sizing can also be found in menswear.
In 2010, an Esquire writer discovered that the waist measurements for men’s dress pants labeled as size 36 varied widely, ranging from 37 to 41 inches. Interesting, since, unlike women’s sizing which is much more subjective, men’s waist sizes are supposed to correspond directly to the garment’s actual measurement in inches.
Where did vanity sizing come from?
To understand vanity sizing, let’s take a quick look at its history and the cultural shifts that made it a thing.
1. Early Standardization Efforts
Back in the mid-20th century, the U.S. government tried to standardize clothing sizes.
In 1958, the National Bureau of Standards rolled out a size chart based on body measurements. The idea was to create a universal system that everyone could rely on, but it didn’t take long for these standards to fall apart.
As body shapes diversified and consumers demanded more personalized fits, brands found the standards too rigid and abandoned them. By the 1970s, these official size guidelines were mostly obsolete, leaving brands to create their own size charts.
2. The Rise of Consumerism
The 1980s and 1990s saw a boom in consumerism and marketing psychology. Brands realized that making people feel good about themselves could directly impact sales.
Clothing companies started tweaking sizes – not the garments themselves, but the labels. They discovered that if a customer thought they could wear a smaller size, they were more likely to buy. This marked the start of vanity sizing as a deliberate strategy.
3. Cultural Obsession with Thinness
During the same era, the media and advertising industries were perpetuating a cultural obsession with thinness. Supermodels like Cindy Crawford and Kate Moss were everywhere, setting the standard for what bodies were “supposed” to look like.
Smaller sizes became aspirational, and brands adjusted their sizing to cater to this ideal. A size 6 became the new size 8, and customers were happy to play along.
4. Globalization and Market Expansion
As fashion became a global industry, the need to appeal to diverse markets added another layer of complexity.
Different regions had their own sizing expectations – what’s considered a medium in Europe might be a large in the U.S. Vanity sizing gave brands a way to smooth over these differences while still appealing to local preferences. For instance, a brand might adjust sizes upward in North America, where average body sizes are larger while maintaining smaller sizes for Asian markets.
Does vanity sizing work?
Yes.
People want to feel good about themselves and vanity sizing perfectly satisfies that desire. One study, for example, found that “fitting into a pair of jeans labeled smaller than its true size can increase positive self-related mental imagery for consumers, irrespective of their self-esteem level.”
If a shopper on your site has the option between buying two t-shirts with the exact same garment measurements, with one being a size medium and the other a large, they’ll tend to opt for the medium.
In short, it’s all about framing. When the same size is presented to consumers as being smaller, they feel better about themselves. And when they feel better about themselves, they’re more likely to hit “Buy.”
When you sell clothes online, you obviously want as many shoppers as possible to complete their purchases. But while vanity sizing can help increase conversions it also leads to some problems.
Why is vanity sizing a problem?
Vanity sizing might boost confidence in the short term, but it comes with a lot of headaches for both shoppers and fashion e-commerce businesses.
Inconsistent Sizing Across Brands
Vanity sizing means consumers can’t trust sizing anymore.
Since one brand’s size 8 can be another brand’s size 12, shoppers can’t reliably purchase the same size across brands. And when shopping online, that’s a huge pain. Customers often have to guess which size will fit, and when it doesn’t work out, they’re left feeling frustrated.
This guessing game erodes trust in brands and makes the shopping experience more stressful than it needs to be.
Higher Return Rates
For online stores, vanity sizing often means higher return rates. When customers order clothes that don’t fit like they expected, they’re likely to send them back.
Returns aren’t just expensive (think covering shipping, restocking, and sometimes refunding costs), but they also create an environmental burden. Returned items often end up in landfills, contributing to waste and pollution.
These returns can eat into your profits and make operations less sustainable.
Body Image Issues
Vanity sizing can mess with how people see their own bodies. Fitting into a smaller size might feel great, but needing a bigger size can be discouraging. Over time, these mixed messages can hurt self-esteem and promote unrealistic body standards.
For many shoppers, the inconsistency can lead to feelings of self-doubt or inadequacy, especially when their size varies drastically between brands. This emotional toll can make shopping, something which should be enjoyable, a source of stress and anxiety.
Complicated Inventory Management
Vanity sizing makes inventory more complex.
You need to maintain unique size ranges that match your standards, which can be tricky when selling in global markets where sizing expectations differ. Managing these inconsistencies adds extra layers of complexity to production, stocking, and distribution.
For example, a medium in one country might not align with what’s considered medium elsewhere, forcing you to create region-specific inventories. This leads to inefficiencies and higher operational costs.
Challenges for Inclusive Fashion
Vanity sizing can make it harder for you to cater to a wide range of body types. When sizing scales are skewed, it can alienate customers who fall outside the “ideal” size range.
This lack of inclusivity sends a negative message to shoppers and limits your brand’s appeal to diverse audiences. Inclusive fashion is a growing demand, and vanity sizing can hinder efforts to make fashion accessible to everyone.
How to handle vanity sizing in fashion e-commerce?
Vanity sizing might feel like an unavoidable part of the industry, but there are ways to tackle it and make the shopping experience smoother for your customers.
First, invest in tools that provide personalized sizing recommendations. Size recommendation systems tools use customer data and garment measurements to pinpoint the best fit for each shopper. This doesn’t just reduce returns, it builds trust by making sizing more reliable. It’s a win-win: your customers get clothes that fit, and you save on costly returns.
Next, be transparent about sizing. Create clear size charts and include detailed product descriptions that specify measurements. You can even add instructions on how to measure at home. This extra step empowers your customers to make informed decisions, boosting their confidence in your brand. If possible, integrate virtual try-on technology or augmented reality (AR) tools. These allow shoppers to see how an item will look and fit without relying solely on size charts.
Finally, make inclusivity a priority. Offer a broad range of sizes to cater to all body types. This not only counters the exclusivity that vanity sizing can create but also opens your store to a wider audience.
Overcome Vanity Sizing
At the end of the day, whether vanity sizing can help brands sell more clothing or not, the most important thing is making sure your customers purchase the right size that fits them.
With the right tools, clear communication, and an inclusive mindset, you can stand out in a crowded market. Shoppers appreciate brands that make their lives easier, and when they can make sure they order the right size, they’re more likely to come back.
After all, your goal isn’t just to sell clothes, it’s to create an experience that keeps customers coming back!
If you’re looking for ways to improve your store’s performance beyond addressing vanity sizing, make sure to check out our article with 5 tips to sell more clothes online.
